Africa’s Last Eden

Visitors come to the 962 square mile Loango National Park to enjoy the irresistible combination of scenery and wildlife – ocean, lagoon, forest and savannah – and the different ways of exploring them – boat, 4WD or on foot. The attractions change according to the time of the year.

The whale season begins around mid July and continues through to mid September, the tarpon fishing season October to mid November and the turtle season is October to mid January. At all times you will see at least some of the following: buffaloes, hippos, crocodiles, manatees, forest elephants, chimpanzees, red river hogs and gorillas.

Through the concept of ‘tourism pays for conservation’, Operation Loango is a private company committed to conservation and sustainable tourism. They involve the local populations to help preserve the local fauna and flora. Operation Loango operate Loango Lodge and two satellite camps, Akaka Bush Camp and Tassi.

Akaka, a 4 hour boat ride from Loango Lodge, is used as a base from which to explore the river by canoe thus not disturbing birds and animals with an engine. On the boat ride guests have a good chance of seeing a plethora of birds, forest elephants and buffaloes and sitatunga antelope. Kayaking and walking is also possible. Akaka Camp is also a surveillance post from where Operation Loango eco-guides keep a watchful eye out for any suspicious activities as well as gather scientific data along regular transects as part of mammal surveillance and botanical survey projects respectively

Tassi is very different. It is an hour and a half 4WD drive from Loango Lodge. As Tassi is on the savannah, surrounded by primary and secondary forest, it will be possible to see chimpanzees and lowland gorillas.

The Tassi area has a healthy population of western lowland gorilla and chimpanzee and has been chosen by the Max Planck Institute as an area in which to undertake a great ape habituation and research project. The project aims at habituating two groups of gorillas and one group of chimps to human presence, in the long term allowing visitors to easily find and observe these shy, elusive primates, while at the same time allowing researchers to gather data on all aspects of the their behaviour and ecology.

Great photographic opportunities due to the primates being in enclosures. From Tassi you can easily get to Louri where in the rainy season, October to April, you will get a chance to see buffalo and elephant on the beach.

En route to Loango Lodge visit the small town of St Anne. In the late 1800’s Gustav Eiffel built an elaborate iron church in the middle of this remote, sparsely populated forest setting with a vista over the lagoon.

The story goes that it was a gift from the first priest mother. It was designed and built in Paris then shipped in pieces to Gabon where the elephants pulled the pieces out of the water and onto the island.

The church is still intact and if you are lucky you can attend mass. Other features of interest include the missionary post, the boarding school and the ‘bamboo cathedral’, where ceremonies are occasionally held.

Langoue Bai, Ivindo National Park, is not for the faint hearted as the journey entails a 7 hour train journey from Libreville, a 3 hour 4WD drive and finally a 3 hour hike to the research camp of Wildlife Conservation Society ( WSC ). This rustic 4 tented camp is basic and baths are either taken in a stream or warm bucket showers can be organised upon request.

It is still an hour’s walk from the camp to Langoue Bai with a steep hill at the end. But it is a place of unparallel beauty. The bai, which is the pygmy word for a forest clearing, is 1km by 300metres wide. Its mineral waters lure animals, but above all elephants out from under the cover of the forest to feed on the nourishing saline soil.

The bai has been observed by researchers and gradually a database of individual elephants is being compiled to see how regularly they visit, and in groups of what size and composition. Interestingly, the research suggests that bai visits fulfil a social function as well as a nutritional one, by providing a place where the elephants have the space to regroup. Elephant and gorilla visitation at the bai is seasonal – elephants in the rainy season peaking in April, May and June as well as November, December and January.

Gorilla visits peak in April, May, June and July. Total numbers of gorillas and elephants in the bai at the same time rarely exceed 10 and 15 respectively. Elephants are present for 91% of the days and gorillas for 60% of the days, not accounting for seasons. Furthermore gorilla viewing is usually at roughly 200 metres so you will need to have the appropriate camera lenses.

End your stay with a visit to the capital city, Libreville. The National Museum is small but full of little gems, notably the photographs, musical instruments and the amazing masks. Every quartier in the city has its own market where you can purchase anything from food to household goods. There are two covered artisan’s markets in the city centre that good for souvenirs. Accommodation ranges from the simple to the simply superb.

Published on:

2005-11-09

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